• Sigma 10-20 Reviews

I went with the Sigma 10-20 a week ago and today I just took it back in for the Canon 10-22. I might have had a bad copy of the Sigma but I had to take 10 shots for 1 keeper with it. Had to have the perfect settings and focus and hope for the best, my upper left corners were softer than the rest once any distance was put into the shot.

Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Handling and Features For a lens that provides such a wide field of view, this optic is remarkably lightweight, tipping the scales at only 240 grams. Sigma 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM Canon on Canon EOS 7D Mark II vs Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM on Canon EOS 7D Mark II. COMPARISON SELECTION (3 selected items max.) VIEW COMPARISON ADD MORE. Tested with; Sigma 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM Canon.

I manage an estate agent in the UK and we use a mixture of professional photographers and our own in-house staff to photograph property. We're looking to upgrade our hardware and would like to know which of these two lenses is the best to buy (or are there better alternatives?).or.We currently use a 18-55 mm lens and the photographs we're producing are not 'wide angle' enough and don't capture enough of the room.

We have a Canon camera and a budget of up to £400 max.I don't know if this should be a separate question but I also need advice on a hotshoe? I'm looking to buy from Amazon. Closed as off-topic by, Dec 28 '15 at 15:28This question appears to be off-topic. The users who voted to close gave this specific reason:. 'Questions seeking specific product or service recommendations, where the answer is likely to be either entirely personal or as a result of changing markets, are off topic here. Please rephrase your question to describe the problem you're trying to solve or what you do not understand that prevents you from determining the answer yourself.' – Philip Kendall, Reid, Hugo, Michael C, John CavanIf this question can be reworded to fit the rules in the, please.

When choosing an ultrawide lens for a camera, you do want to consider a few factors:.Focal lengths. With ultrawide zooms, while 10mm vs.

12mm may not seem like a lot of difference, the wider the lenses go, the more those individual millimeters mean in terms of the field of view you're going to receive from the lens. Given that your two choices are identical in this regard, you probably don't need to worry about it. But if you were looking at, say, the Tokina 11-16/2.8 or the Sigma 12-24, it might be a different story.Format. Get a lens that matches the format of the camera you're shooting, but understand that if you upgrade from 'crop' to 'full frame', you may not be able to use this lens, and will have to purchase another-far more expensive-lens to do the same job on full frame. This is simply the nature of the beast and crop factors. Since both of the lenses you have listed are 'DC' (crop) not 'DG' (Sigma's designation for full frame), you should be good until you go to a 5D or 6D body.Optical performance, particularly in the corners and wrt chromatic aberration and distortion. Ultrawide lenses always come with some form of distortion, and typically can become soft in the corners, and exhibit vignetting or chromatic aberration.

All of this is easily fixable in post, but takes time to do so. The higher the volume of images you want to turn out, the more time (money) it takes to do so when lenses exhibit issues like this. In this regard, the lenses are pretty equivalent, although the f/3.5 version will exhibit more issues when used wide open at f/3.5 (something the 4/5.-5.6 version can't do). This is pretty typical. But stopped down to the same settings as the slower version,.So, basically, the only advantage the f/3.5 version has over the 4.5-5.6 is the slightly wider max. But it's not that much wider, and f/3.5 still isn't particularly fast. Most folks prefer an f/2.8 or faster lens for available light shooting.Things you typically aren't going to care about:.Autofocus speed/accuracy.

Sigma 10-20 Reviews

Because you're shooting interiors, which don't move particularly fast, and lower light levels, you're most often going to be shooting on a tripod. You have the time to manually focus, and using the LCD with magnification can be more accurate than autofocus.

The HSM focus motor feature is not needed for speed or silence.Maximum aperture. Again, because you're liable to be shooting on a tripod, with good technique, you might even want to stop down for sharpness and just use longer shutter speeds. A wide fast maximum aperture is really only going to be useful is someone is handholding, and even then, you're probably going to need f/2.8 or faster, and neither of these Sigma lenses would be appropriate. A lens like the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 or a fast wide prime might be more appropriate.What really makes or breaks real estate photography, however, is the lighting. So it may be worthwhile to consider getting an even lower-cost lens, like the EF-S 10-18; and throwing money towards lighting gear/training instead.